40
UNDERWEAR
FOREWORD
Ю
THE GENTLEMAN'S VISITING CARD
42 The Most Important Question of All 44 Variations Underneath 46 A Fly-Away Success
12
THE BEARD
14 Shaving at Home
16 At the Barber's 9 17 A Good Wet Shave 18 The Electric Shaver • 20 Different Men, Different Beards • 22 Timeless Scents 24 The Perfumei 's ABO
48
THE SHIRT
00 0» Gentleman's Shirt • 51 Good Shirts at a Glance 9 52 Collar Shapes 54 Cotton 9 55 Swiss Quality-Alumo 56 The Stuff Shirts are Mode of 57 Folding a Shirt 58 Shirts wm r i • r i , i i
Sturirnokers 9
IS Creoleci 1 оч bNCLf.j mil ти v v ue mui <u 60 fhe Brooks Brothers Shirt ® 66 The Right Shirt - 'the Right Fit 9 68 Washing and Ironing - the Fundamentals of Shirt Care
28 The Joys oi Visiting the Hairdresser 30 What Should I Put on My Hair? 32 The Right Way to Wash Hair 34 Hairstyles with Character 36 The Toupee: For and Against
37 The Fake Hair of the Stars 37 Chest Hair * 38 The
39 The Manicure
70
THE NECKTIE
72 From Neckcloth to Ornamental Neckwear * 73 Stars of the Stripes 74 A Good Necktie • 75 Woolen Neckties • 76 A Great Success from the Grande Nation • 77 Fhe Best o f fhe Best 78 The Origins of Silk 79 AAakmg a Necktie * 80 The Custom-Made Necktie * 81 The Business Necktie 82 Ihe Four -in-Hand ® 83 Ftow to Tie a Necktie • 83 The Windsor Knot 84 Fhe Bow fie • 86 lying a Bow he
Men's Fabncs * /04 Three Sovile Rove Customers • 105 fhe King of Style • /06 Ihe Right Kind of Iweed Suit * 108 The Italian Suit • 10 9 FI and made Ready-to-wear Clothing - An Italian Art • 110 Bnoni - vein, vidi, via • 112 Kiton or the Vision of Ciro Pa one® 112 Exclusive to Kiton: The Fabrics
] 1Л [he Summer Suit
118
SMART CASUAL
120 Ihe Sports Jacket • 122 Needle and thread • 124 Tweed Plus • 126 Attolmi -A Suit made by the Boss • 128 Today's Sports Jacket • 128 An Eye for Detail 130 Fabrics for Trousers to Go with the Sports Jacket • 132 The Gray Eminence 134 Khaki Couture
135 Shorts • 136 The Right Sort of Jeans 138 The Cut • 139 How trousers Got their Cuffs * 140 The Waist Area 140 The Trousers in Detail 141 Other Lands, Other Trousers 142 All about Suspenders • /44 fhe Right Belt * 146 The Blazer - a Living Legend 148 Blazer and trousers
152 Good shoes
156 John Lobb • 158 Formal shoes with closed lacing • 160 Formal shoes with open lacing • 162 Loafers 164 Moccasins Italian Style 166 Monkstraps - fhe Shoes with Buckles 167 Other Word for Weatherproof 168 Not all Leathers are Equal 170 The Center oi the Shoe world 172 fhe Shoemaker's Tools * 174- How a
Shoe Takes Shape • 178 The Other Word for Cordovan • 180 Suede Shoes 182 American Classics - Saddle Shoes 183 Slippers * 184 The Royal Wellington Boot ® 186 Socks - Getting the Combination Right ® 188 Shoes and the Rest
190
OVERCOATS & JACKETS
192 Overcoat Culture ® 194 Essential Overcoats * 198 The Officer in the Gentleman • 199 The Duffel Coat • 200 The Barbour Phenomenon •
2.01 I he Story of the Waxed Jacket Ю2 The Barbour in Detail * 203 Jhe Top) Six * 204 Short is All Right
206 HE HAT
218
ACCESSORIES
220 Those little differences 222 The Everyday Ballast • 224 One has it -but where? • 226 What does it tell us? 228 The best watches in the world 230 All About the Watch • 232 Less is More • 234 Preface to Tobacco 236 The Cigarette • 238 The Pipe 240 Classic Pipe Squad 241 The Manufacture * 242 The Cigar * 244 The Sizes • 246 The Bar in the Pocket • 248 The Cuff Link 260 Our Daily Companion 252 The Original • 254 Traveling in Style 9 256 For the Short Trip 258 The Knack with the Jacket
2.59 The Right Way to Pack, a Suitcase
2.60 The Walking Cane • 26/ I he Laps Robe * 262 No Tear of Pam
2o4 The 'Other Word in Umbrellas ■2.66 Classes * 2168 Not only when the Sun Shines • 270 The Pi a rid kerchief 2/2. From Eland to Breast Pocket 2/4 !he Right Combination • 276 The Glove 278 Scarf Refinement